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The 100 Foot Wave

1/2/2024

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The 100 Foot Wave
We watched a documentary last night called “The 100 foot Wave.”  It was about a competition for big wave surfing held by an organization called “Nazare Big Wave Surf”  It featured a wave break in Portugal.  There are web cams at this site.
​I did not see the whole lot, but the story was following one surfer while showing many others.  Both men and women highlighted the adrenaline of it, and the fear of it.  When people come a cropper, they really come a cropper there and the race is on to save a person that finds themselves unexpectedly in the water.
At the time of the story (2022) the 100 foot wave was an aspiration.  There was a longing to surf one that large.  The winner of the competition that year (it is based on who successfully rides the biggest wave) rode a 73 foot wave.  Someone said that whoever rides a 100 foot wave will probably catch one 120 or so feet.
Surfing a hundred-foot wave is something I would never do or based on what I have seen, never want to do. 
The episode we saw showed a world-famous surfer getting longer in the tooth and who had settled down with family.  It was something he said that really got my attention.   What he said was something like “life is the one hundred foot wave.”
I did like that as I know I tend to limit my expectations.  I will never forget Zig Zigler saying how fleas in a bottle with a lid tend to jump as high as the lid.  Take the top away and fleas only jump that high.  Freedom is in jumping a little higher, but they don’t.  They have been conditioned to jump as high as the lid and no more.
I do want to avoid that scenario.  There are limits, and like an exerciser mastering smaller steps prepares me to make bigger steps.  But I personally do not want to be limited by what others say I can do, or what I think I can do.
What I can do is likely to be beyond what I imagine or ever what I have seen.
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  • Home
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