Breakers

I chose the word from the dictionary this time.  Again, it was a word that is in common use.  Less so inland I image but “breaker” would be fairly common in areas with surf nearby.  For us to experience surf in North Queensland a cyclone needed to be going by.  If that happened, we would race down the beach for the surf (before it got dangerous to do so). 
I use the word “surf” loosely.  The waves were messy but they were bigger.  Sometimes we could even ride them for more than three seconds.  If we wanted surf, we would need to go to Magnetic Island.  The waves were not messy and they were bigger.  I do not know that it would really qualify as surf but they were what we called surf.  Sort of Claytons surf.
There is like horse “breaker” but I do not want to go there.  I mean why break a perfectly good horse?  Beyond me.  Just like I don’t get why they build a perfectly good toilet and then make it disabled.  I mean, why build it in the first place if you are going to do that?
I don’t look the part of a surfer these days but there was a day….  I have not always been grey haired.  There was a time I had no hair but that is going back to far.  Though it seems I may be going full circle.  Once I was blond haired and blue eyed with rippling muscles and I could do a summersault on a moving surfboard and land on my feet.  No forget that.  That was a dream.
I have always liked body surfing though.  Except at Mooloolaba.  They were dumpers.  I did not trust those waves.  After hitting the sand unexpectedly, it was like I was in a washing machine.  Not that I have ever been in a washing machine, but I imagine it is like that.
That is probably how they got the name breakers.  They were out to get me.  Broken bones I am sure was the goal.  Forget the idyllic picture of waves breaking along the shoreline.  Many people believe that is the way the name came about, but if I do not look it up I have no proof.  At least what I am thinking has a sense of adventure.  What will happen next?  Will the next wave be one to ride or one to avoid? That beats a boring old procession of waves breaking along the shoreline with monotonous regularity.
My brother and I invented a game that involved a ball and breaking waves.  We never saw anyone else doing it but now it is an advertised game.  I do not know who stole the idea but it was probably that entreprenmoorial cow Merril had a picture of on the beach.  That was probably what he was thinking about.  But I am not bitter and twisted.  If I were, I would likely be coming up with farfetched ideas.
I really just enjoy watching breakers these days.  Last time I went in the surf I could not believe how disoriented I was.  But if there are breakers in heaven look out.  I should have plenty of time to get it right.